Large wave surfers have discovered how to prepare for large waves. Their daily responsibilities need a perfect balance of physical health and mental fortitude. You are not born with the talent to surf big waves, but you can learn. Recognizing and understanding how much is at stake when traveling at 50 mph (80 km/h) down the face of a monster wave with a massive wall of water behind you at full speed is part of the process. Brock Little, Laird Hamilton, Shane Dorian, Garrett McNamara, Grant Twiggy Baker, Grant Washburn, Greg Long, Ian Walsh, Jay Moriarity, Jeff Clark, Mike Parsons, Peter Mel, and Ross Clarke-Jones are among the best huge wave surfers of all time. They both adhere to the regulations.

1. Never ride the first wave in a big set.

It’s difficult to resist a good-looking wave when you’ve been waiting for 10 minutes and adrenaline wants to surge through your entire body. The issue is that if you wipe out, you will take out the entire set.

2. Allow the whitewater to control your body movement. Don’t fight the strength of the whitewash if you are trapped in a wave or if you wipe out. You’ll run out of energy and oxygen. Allow yourself to relax in the fetal posture.

3. Wear a buoyancy vest at all times. During life-threatening hold-downs, a flotation vest can save your life by bringing you to the surface.

4. Maintain Control of Panic; Allow Fear to Do Its Work. Panic attacks are defined by a dread of calamity or losing control, even when there is no genuine risk. That is not what you desire. Fear, on the other hand, is a basic survival strategy. Fear is an excellent motivator for huge wave management.

5. Bail Out in the Most Ingenious Way Possible. Before dumping out, familiarise yourself with the ocean floor and imagine the motion of the waves behind you.

6. Acquire the Ability to Wipe Out. Always jump away from your board, prevent head dives, protect your brain, stay cool, and keep your eyes open when underwater.

7. Never go out alone on a big wave surfing day. If something goes wrong, you won’t be able to rely on a jet ski to save your life. Paddling out alone on a large wave is perhaps the greatest mistake a surfer can make.

8. Before paddling out, research the currents, ocean bottom, and wave peaks. Power comes from knowledge. Take your time and acquire as much information on the large wave site as you can before paddling out. This will assist you in lowering your anxiety levels.

Source: surfertoday